Hallmarks


Lasting doesn’t just happen. From the very beginning, we committed ourselves to consistently going above and beyond the call of duty when it comes to the quality and the making of our garments. Some people call this the little things. For us, it’s the everything. Literally, the very soul of Relwen and evident throughout our entire line.

 

  • Double stitched leather washers.
  • Rockhard drawcords.
  • 3-hole leather pignose stoppers.
    • Bound and reinforced seams throughout interiors for lasting durability and smooth finish.
    • Recessed holes built into buttons to reduce abrasion that weakens thread.
    • Fully bound interior zipper tape of our anorak, reflects the importance of minding details that no one ever notices—except when the item fails.
    • Gussets built into positions of stress for protective movement.
    • Working sleeve buttons on blazers, add utility, folding cuffs out of the work.
    • Soft lined pockets of fleece pile or brushed tricot, providing extra thickness and security.
    • Pocket welt openings with added reinforcement layers thru welt and triangular point.
    • Heavy zig-zag bartacks at stress points.
      • Quilt-thru stitching from side to side to maintain insulation positions.
      • Functional throat tabs on blazers and jackets, because nature happens.
      • Hidden game pockets built into rear sideseams of every blazer, storage for the least expected moments.
      • Rib knit cuffs extending from liners of every style.
      • Dense cotton cording of our Military Parka, faithful to the smallest detail, adding 2x the durability with double cording.
      • Hidden woven tape reinforced snap positions, firmly securing fastener hardware.
      • Elbow pleats on jackets, centered over elbows, place fullness and ease at points of movement.
      • Sweater buttons firmly attached through reinforcement materials at backs of garments.
      • Ultrasuede reinforcements behind buttons of our Shawl neck sweater.
      • Jersey bound thumbholes on longer rib knit cuffs, just as easily rolled in half or used to grip forearms.

      • Trapunto stitched placket opening with bound woven facing at top side.
      • Horizontal buttonholes of our popovers/mocks aim to reduce stress on buttonholes and pay respect to construction methods of the past.
        • Woven shoulder tape across back neck and shoulder seams provides a clean finish look, helping maintain the shape of the garment when worn.
        • Raw seams also covered with such tape, reducing thread and seam breakage in these areas of stress.
          • Raw open knit hems with jersey facings directly applied without folded seam allowance to allow for a flatter and more seamless look at waist.
          • Split tail hem with woven reinforcement and bartack to insure lasting function.


          • Double layer fabric in our flannel shirts with 8-ply felled seams.
          • Attentively matched patterns at front and back panels.

            • 1/4" single needle construction of our lightest weight shirtings
            • All patterns matching at sideseams, center front, and pocketing.
            • Triangular self-fabric reinforcement at split tail limits garment from breakage at this position.
              • Subtly curved top collar to properly sit around neck.
              • Shell buttons anchored at corners along with reinforcing 2nd ply of material at interior of shirt.
                • Straight collar shirtings with open slots at backside for collar stays.
                • Never do we recommend collar stays, but the added fabric layers (from folding the materials to create the slots) provides desirable thickness and body for the collar points.


                  • Beltloops of 4 ply thickness with 1/16" rolled lip.
                  • All beltloops inserted at top of waistbands between waistband facing and exterior shell.
                    • Opening hems of bottoms with separate fabric facing, provides a flatter finish with added weight, as well as making it easier to hold a rolled cuff.
                    • Patch pockets cut with +1/2" fullness across width to allow contents to push outward away from body and not inward against the fit of the garment.
                    • Woven tape reinforcements extending from behind beltloops at interior of bottoms to increase the strength of the garment.
                    • Folded seams of a pant (or any garment) helps convey quality workmanship.
                    • Here a 2nd layer of facing sits behind the pocket opening and is rolled 1/8" away from the opening edge to prevent visibility at topside.
                      • Knee pleats added to most of our bottoms where extra fullness imparts added comfort and function.
                      • Trapunto stitched fly plackets (behind zipper teeth) reduce risk of fabric catching the teeth of the zipper, compacts fabric to lay cleaner against the body.